Finally, the Autumn swell has arrived!

This year has been so strange – normally we can surf right through the summer on small waves, but this year there has been a persistent South West wind which has pretty much ruined all chances of surfing.

We have had a few sessions which have been really great, but nothing like normal. However, this week that all changed. We have been watching the forecast with great interest, and finally this week we have good waves at Banana Point (approx 1.5mt) and strong currents – the perfect conditions!

Unfortunately, I am out of action – I tried to surf the pre-swell waves earlier in the week, but decided not to push it – surfing is dangerous and with strong currents you can soon get into difficulties, risking yourself and others. If you are not at 100%, don’t go!

So instead, I grabbed the camera and headed out to find some good shots. I bumped into Andrea and Omar of Salty Goats Surf Camp and decided to get a few shots of their latest intake of students. I met their new students on their first day and we surfed together – some of the guys had a little experience surfing but not much, some were novices but they were all here to get some expert instruction from the guys at Salty Goats.

They chose my home surf break – Banana Point – to surf, so Andrea and I took up a great spot on the hill above to get a few shots.

Surfing is not only a very physical sport, it is also very much a mindset.

When I first met these students, they were a bit nervous and lacked confidence – which is totally understandable and expected. After a week of instruction, they have changed so much and really understood what it takes to head out in a strong swell and catch waves. Omar is probably the most patient and focused instructor I have experienced, and this shows in his results.

The change in these students was dramatic and I really wanted to get out and surf with them yesterday – they have improved so much.

Also, I know they have had a lot of instruction in surfing etiquette too, something that is sadly lacking in the lineups. Many of the instructors I come across are aggressive to locals and just hog the break, allowing their students to create a nuisance and danger to others out there. It’s not the students, but the instructors.

Anyway, the two main subjects in my photos are Lou and Morris – such nice people. They were catching some really great waves and had such fun – two shots I really love are the Black and White image – the focus and attitude just grabbed me, and the final wave shot – a fist in the air celebrating a job well done!

If you are looking for great accommodation, a home-from-home experience, expert surf instruction at all levels, and a holiday to remember, check out this link to Salty Goats Surf Camp